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What is a Bodhrán?

The Irish (or Celtic) frame drum known as a bodhran has a long and somewhat mystical history.  It’s unclear where this hand held wooden framed drum originated.  How it got to Ireland is also still open to speculation – but it’s clear that one version or other of the bodhran appears to have been present on the island for many centuries.  Some believe that as the Celts wandered from Asia, they brought this drum along, and it made its way through Europe to what is now Ireland.  Still others feel that this now popular percussion instrument has its orThis Tunable Irish Bodhran is a Frame Drum with a goarskin head that can be tuned from the inside of the drum shell.igins in Africa and that the Celts first brought it with them on their journey through Spain.

Today’s bodhrans use circular wooden frames which have animal skins (typically goat) or synthetic materials stretched over them on one end.  This lightweight percussion instrument is played by holding it on one arm, with the hand inside and able to touch the skin in order to control the tone.  Traditionally, players strike the drumhead with a relatively short, single- or double-headed stick known as a tipper.  The most common playing style utilizes a two-headed tipper and is known as the Kerry style.  With this method of playing, one end of the tipper is used to maintain a rhythmic beat, while the other end generates various rolls and tonal embellishments.  The bodhran may also be played with the knuckles, fingers, or the palm of the hand, and these will produce different ranges of tone as well as volume.

Oddly enough, the bodhran may not have been originally intended for use solely as a percussion instrument.  With its wooden frame and animal skin cover on one end, it appears to have served as an agricultural implement that was used during the harvest to separate grain from its husks chaff by tossing the grain in the air.  The IrThis bodhran wood knob tipper has a center groove and features knobs for paying on each end.ish refer to such farming tools as dallans, and they were used extensively in the past.  Nonetheless, the bodhran may also have been used as a crude “noisemaker” during the important harvest festivals that took place in villages all over the countryside.

Whatever its origins and initial uses, the bodhran had been largely confined to the southwestern part of Ireland until the 1960s.  Then, its presence was extended beyond those borders by Sean O’Riada – and specifically for playing traditional Irish/Celtic music.  Many, in fact, consider O’Riada as the patriarch of the resurgence of Irish music, who brought attention to more modern forms of traditional Irish music, as well.  O’Raida even went so far as to proclaim the bodhran the “native drum” of the Celts, and he claimed that it was already used as a musical instrument well over two thousand years ago.  Although such assertions are unlikely to be substantiated (or disproved), the mystical air that envelopes the culture of the Celts and their music has certainly led, in part, to the enchantment with the Bodhran among both professional as well as amateur players.  Growing numbers of musicians and musical groups worldwide are incorporating this instrument into their performances – and their audiences absolutely adore it!

To experience today’s bodhran in action, check out the sounds of players such as Donnchadh Gough, Johnny “Ringo” McDonagh, John Joe Kelly, Kevin Conneff (of the Chieftains), and many others.

See Bodhrans for sale at Daly Music!

 

What is a Sitar?

Sitars have become increasingly popular among amateur as well as professional musicians, and we often receive calls and emails asking about these unique Indian instruments.  The sitar is a multi-stringed musical instrument which belongs to the lute family.  Sitars most likely evolved from a combination of the Medieval Tanbur (a Middle Eastern long-necked type of lute) and the somewhat complex and ancient Indian tube zither variously known as the Veena, Vina, or Bin.  An exotic looking and sounding instrument, the sitar is strongly associated with the northern region of India, and it remains the primary musical instrument in popular Hindustani music.

The sitar has existed in its modern form for only a short time, with images of similar instruments going back only about 200 years.  Today’s so-called “standard” sitar reflects modifications that were made during the early 1900’s, and the instrument has remained relatively unchangeThis is a full size sitar, professional model, with 2 toombas made by Manoj Sardar of India.d over the last 100 years (not taking into account the development of hybrid instruments such as the fusion sitar, which blends an electric guitar body with a sitar style neck).

The frets on most sitars are made of metal, and they are moveable.  This allows certain scales (and notes) to be played by moving specific frets.  There are typically five main (melody) strings and five or six drone strings, which accentuate the music’s rhythm or pulse.  In addition, from 9 to 13 “sympathetic strings” will lie beneath the convex frets in the sitar’s trough shaped hollow neck.  These are not played, but instead will resonate harmonically as a result of the vibrations from the instrument’s other strings.  In addition to the large resonating chamber known as a toomba (or tumba) which is located at the bottom of the neck, there is often another smaller toomba placed under the pegbox end of the neck.  Toombas are traditionally made from natural gourds.  These resonating chambers serve to amplify as well as reverberate sound.

Most sitars are constructed of hardwoods such as mahogany or (now less coThi sitar features a flat wooden toomba,with 4 main, 2 chikari and 11 sympathetic strings. It also has a single toomba and measures 43 inches in length. This Miraj brand sitar has black pegs with decorative trim simulated mother of pearl inlay.mmonly) teak.  On a so-called “full size” sitar, the wooden neck is usually about 35 inches in length and 3.5 inches wide.  As previously noted, it will also be slightly trough shaped.  Full size sitars are usually about four feet in length.  The instrument also comes in so-called “3/4 size” and “half-size” models – though the comparable measurements are not so precise.  As would be expected, the smaller instruments will not produce the volume or resonance of the large models; but they can offer a good choice for younger or smaller players.  In addition, their lighter weight and easier portability make them popular for traveling musicians.

Getting started playing the sitar is not as difficult as you might think.  There are many learning resources available (including instructional DVDs), and the instrument’s growing popularity has made finding an instructor less difficult than in the past.  In addition, prices for student and even professional level sitars imported from India are reasonable.  Models from brands such as Banjira (Mid-East Mfg.), G. Rosul, Radha Krishna Sharma & Co., and Monoj Kumar Sardar & Bros., are well worth exploring.

For more information on the variety of sitars currently available, be sure to check out the Indian sitars for sale at Daly Music.  Call us or shoot an email if you have any questions!

How to buy your first electric guitar – some things to consider.

Okay, let me start by saying that any online “how to” buying guide is not going to cover all the things you want to know.  What I am presenting here will hopefully address some of the more important factors for those who may be considering their first electric guitar purchase.  If you’ve been playing guitar for years, then you’ll likely not find a lot of new information here; but if you’re a relatively new player, then this should help you make a more informed decision about that first guitar purchase.

Let’s start with the body style.  Today’s electrics come in a dizzying assortment of brands, shapes and sizes.  Whether your ultimate goal is to become a metal monster or a jazz junkie, you’re going to have plenty of choices.  The best way to look at this is to choose a guitar that will be “right” for the style of music you play or want to play.  There are three main types to consider:  solid body, hollow body, and semi-hollow body electric guitars.  Solid body guitars are the most common and come in the largest variety of styles.  Because they are made of solid wood slabs (typically hardwoods) or laminates they offer little differentiation in terms of acoustic characteristics.  Yes, some players will swear by solid mahogany, while others favor bass wood, alder, maple, or various exotic woods.  In the end, the body shape and thickness, weight, neck style, and pickups will have much more impact on any tonal/resonant properties produced by the instrument.  (At this stage, you can leave arguments over the tonal properties of wood and such to the aficionados.)  Just choose something that looks right, feels right, and is well constructed.  Focus on getting a good axe, playing, and gaining skills!

Hollow body electric guitars are the primary choice among many jazz guitarists.  These instruments are actually large enough to be played acoustically (without amplification), though they’re designed to work with amps.  One drawback is that when using too much amplification, they can produce more feedback compared to a solid body guitar.  There are ways to compensate for this, however, and most jazz musicians tend not to need intense levels of sound amplification for the venues they play.

Semi-hollow body electric guitars are noted for producing a rounder, more soulful sound quality.  They feature solid wood centers in the body (which helps to minimize feedback potential) and have large chambers on either side.  The sound holes are also usually located above each chamber in the soundboard (or “top”) and can come in a number of styles.  The traditional “f-hole” cutout continues to be the most popular among players and manufacturers.

The next consideration is the neck.  Look for a guitar that has a rigid, straight, and tight fitting neck.  This will help ensure that the action (string height) remains consistent, once it has been properly set.  The action is the distance between the string and the frets.  In general the greater the distance, the more difficult it is to push the string down and produce a clean note.  Keep in mind that action which is set too low may result in “fret buzz” with one or more strings and at one or more frets.  Setting a guitar’s action is also an ongoing process, since seasonal variations in temperature and humidity can affect any set-up.

“Bolt-on” necks are attached with bolts to the guitar body and very common for electric guitars.  They can be more easily repaired than “set” necks, which are glued to the body.  While a set neck can make a guitar a bit more expensive, the solid attachment usually ensures stability.  Many players also favor set necks due to their increased resonant properties and “bend-ability” when playing.  The guitar neck should also include a metal truss rod that runs its length.  This rod not only reinforces the neck, but also makes it adjustable for setting the action.  Necks also come in different shapes and radiuses.  Focus on choosing one that’s a comfortable fit for your hand.  As you gain experience and skill, you may want to try different neck profiles.

The frets on the neck’s fingerboard are also important.  Electric guitars more commonly feature 22 frets, although 24 frets are available (for those who want to screech even higher).  The most important thing to look for is smooth frets that are made of either stainless steel or nickel fret wire.  This will make playing easier and practice more enjoyable; plus, it allows you to do more with your guitar (bends, slides, etc.).  The most common finger board (or fret board) material is rosewood.  It should be smooth and properly laminated to the neck, with smooth edges that are most often finished with a binding material such as imitation ivory or a hardwood.  Ebony is also used as a fret board material, though it is more costly and usually only found on higher priced instruments.

A lot of debate surrounds the best “scale length” for guitars, with most electrics made with either a scale length of 24-3/4 or 25-1/2 inches.  The shorter scale length provides a lower string tension and is generally a bit easier to play (ideal for beginners).  It also produces a less “trebly” sound quality.  A longer scale length will provide a higher tension and produce more trebly sounds.  If you’re a new player, you’ll likely be happier if you go with the shorter scale length.

The last thing I want to touch on is the guitar bridge.  A tremolo and a stoptail are the two main types of bridges found on electric guitars.  The tremolo is often called a “whammy bar” and lets players bend all the strings at once.  Tremolos are great for these effects – but they tend to throw strings out of tune.  Be prepared to do a lot of quick tuning, if you plan to hit the tremolo hard during your metal madness sessions!  The more common stoptail bridge is fixed onto the body of the guitar and consequently provides more stability in terms of holding tune.  A stoptail bridge also produces more sustain, which is one reason that many guitar players prefer this design.

As you’ve probably noticed by now, personal preference goes far into the decision making process.  Do a bit of research on guitar manufacturers and get some details on any models you find of interest.  It also helps to read reviews and to consider what other players say about a particular brand or style of electric guitar.  Taking a little time to educate yourself will help you to make a more informed buying decision.

TreeWorks Chimes – Hand-Crafted Percussion Chimes Made in the USA

Musical chimes are in essence very simple percussion instruments.  They rely on just three primary components:  the bars, the cords, and the mantle.  The design and characteristics of each of these three parts is important not only to the overall function of a chime, but also to the type andTreeWorks Chimes Tre35 Classic Single Row Chime Set quality of sound it will produce.  It should come as no surprise that a cheap set of chimes will usually produce, well, a cheap sounding chime – one that lacks resonance and character.  Chimes offer an important addition to any percussionist’s arsenal of instruments, and they can be utilized in different ways to expand the range of sounds and effects to any number of musical compositions.  Sometimes overlooked, a set of well-crafted chimes can add a subtle, yet very distinctive and memorable sound to live and recorded music.

TreeWorks Chimes is a company that was founded with the goal of designing and crafting instrumental chimes that will meet the needs of the most discerning drummers and percussionists.  Although the business has grown since its inception in 1996, it is still a small company that focuses on producing a select collection of the finest chimes at affordable prices.

At the heart of any TreeWorks chime is the metal bar.  BegTreeWorks Chimes Diagraminning with the choice of material, TreeWorks produces bars that will create a crisp and distinctive sound.  The material they choose is not some standard “off-the-shelf” aluminum.  Instead, TreeWorks procures custom mill runs which have been certified to spec and thoroughly quality tested.  They use a special aluminum/titanium alloy that is tempered to a T-6 specification.  This tempering process brings about a more consistent grain structure in the material, and it helps to impart the clear, characteristic sound for which the name TreeWorks has become recognized.

To make metal bars into TreeWorks chimes, they must first be carefully cut and precisely drilled.  The bars are then polished to create a bevel on the edges, which will minimize any friction against the cord from which they will be suspended.  Remarkably in this age of automation, the chimes are actually tuned by ear.  Slowly and methodically, each bar is individually tuned to pitch.  Because it would adversely affect the overall sound quality, TreeWorks never paints, tints, dips, anodizes, or plates their metal bars.

TreeWTreeWorks Chimes Tree Coil Chime Setorks also takes very seriously the cord from which their chimes are suspended.  Using CordLoc™ (a select composition of fibers which offers tremendous strength), they braid and individually hand-tie their cords to each bar.  Every cord is then locked and sealed, which makes it virtually indestructible.  The length of each cord is also carefully measured to ensure that a bar will not strike the mantle (which would inhibit the sound).  Each knot is also tucked inside the hole on the mantle, so that it cannot touch the bar.

The mantles on all TreeWorks chime sets feature select Tennessee hardwoods.  Black Walnut and White Ash are used exclusively, and these come from managed forests.  The selection of wood entails individual hand-picking from kiln-dried stock.  Once selected, the wood is cut and drilled – and then carefully sanded a total of 16 times.  The mantles will only carry the TreeWorks brand name after undergoing a final, hand-applied oil finish.  While some may feel that such attention to detail is a bit excessive, most musicians realize that every instrument they use ultimately becomes a reflection of themselves and their music.  With that realization comes not a little responsibility to choose the best possible musical instruments and accessories for the purpose at hand.

Daly Music is an Authorized Dealer for TreeWorks Chimes and guarantees your complete satisfaction with each and every one of their fine quality percussion instruments.

What is an Ocarina?

The name “ocarina” refers to a type of flute which features a vessel chamber rather than the elongated tube we typically expect to see for flutes.  The ocarina is an ancient wind instrument that first appeared roughly 12,000 years ago.  Its origins can be traced back to many different cultures, with the instrument found in Africa, China, Latin America, India, and other locations.  Ocarinas were made in various shapes and out of different materials, including bone, clay, stone, or wood, as well as from gourds or shells.  In Latin America for example, the Aztecs, MayaThe DOBANI Tenor Ocarina is made of clay and features a Leather Necklace.ns, and Incas made ocarinas out of clay.  These were often shaped like birds or other animals.  As far back as 7000 years ago, ocarinas shaped like birds and animals could also be found in India.  On the other hand, in China the instrument (called a Xun) had its own unique form.  There, the ocarina had a more rounded, egg-like shape.

Various style of ocarinas are found throughout the world today, and they include instruments which are played by breathing over a hole as well as through a mouthpiece.  The Italian Guiseppe Donati is credited with inventing what we consider the modern ocarina in the early 1850’s.  The hollow instrument he developed is played through an extended mouthpiece.  Although Donati’s adaptation of the ocarina is often what comes to mind when we think of this wind instrument, various styles and forms which reflect ancient versions have maintained their popularity and are enjoyed by players of all ages.

Most ocarinas come in one of four basic types.  These include the transverse, pendant, inline, and a multi-chambered version.  The transverse ocarina has a round shape, and it is the most common form of the instrument.  It typically has ten or twelve holes and is held with both hands to play.  The pendant style of ocarina usually has only four to six holes (although it may have up to ten) and is very small; thus, it can be held and played in one hand.  Inline ocarinas combine the smaller size of a pendant model with the large number of holes of a transverse.  The main distinction of the so-called “multi-chamber” ocarina lies in its design, which allows the player to produce a greater tonal range compared to the more common single chambered versions.  This feature can offer a clear advantage, particularly to more accomplished players or those looking to extend their musical range with this instrument.

How do you play the Ocarina?

Learning to play the ocarina is almost always fun and usually not too difficult.  The first step is to learn where to place your fingers so that you can play the notes you want.  When you blow into the instrument (whether through a mouthpiece or a hole), the air enters the interior chamber.  This air will strike the inner fold of the instrument, or a rectangular hole, and thereby produce a sound which reverberates throughout the inside of the ocarina.  By covering and uncovering the round sound-holes on the exterior, you can raise or lower the pitch.  It takes a bit of practice to achieve just the right pitch and sound level.  The variations in tone produced will depend on the total surface area of the opened holes in relation to the interior volume of the ocarina.  Because the sound is created through the resonance within the ocarina’s chamber, the number of open holes on the instrument is more important than their actual location.

The ocarina continues to grow in popularity, and people around the world are discovering just how much fun it can be to play this unique wind instrument.  Many people are now playing, collecting, composing, and even making their own ocarinas.  You can get started by taking a look at some of the many ocarinas for sale at Daly Music.  These affordable musical instruments also make great gifts!